Sunday 17 June 2012

Lastovo Island - Anchoring, Exploring & Saling

Lastovo is the closest check-in location to southern Italy being only 60 miles from Vieste and usually reachable within a daylight sail. Until recently, the island was a military outpost and forbidden to foreign yachts. Today it is open to cruisers, and has very little tourist development and is quiet, somewhat seedy and austere, but still interesting to visit. It has a nice secure anchorage and is a good place to hang out and prepare for the cruising season.

Velji Lago
The port of Velji Lago (42° 45'N; 16° 49'E) is a large bay on the south-western side of Lastovo. There are various suitable places for anchoring and mooring here.
The bay is best entered between the two islets of 'Vlašnik' en 'Bratin Otok'.
- At the southern side, you find the village of Ubli
- At the northern side, you’ll find Hotel Solitudo (and that’s how it feels there…)
- At the north-western side there is Jurjeva Luka
- At the western side, there is Kremena bay

Kremena
Anchored at  Kremena, the village is somewhat  interesting, despite its spooky bay. The spookiness is caused by the entrance of an old Yugoslav naval base station. Kremena is well protected against most winds, although Bura winds can cause a serious swell. This comes in through the small channel near the hotel.

Ubli
In Ubli and at the hotel you can moor along a quay, with electricity and water available. Various pilot guides say that mooring and anchoring is not allowed in Jurjeva Luka. However, the HHI Adriatic Sea Pilot (edition 2004) says that it is allowed, and various yachts were seen entering there.
A catamaran ferry uses the north part of this dock at times, and you will be asked to move by the port control gentleman if the ferry is due. You can tie up here for a while to clear with the authorities if the ferry is not due.
If you tuck into the south east corner near the fuel dock it is possible to stay overnight, with the blessing of port control.
The supermarket is located in the "center of town" which is about 100m to the east of the fuel dock. It was closed the day I was there. A lagoon anchorage with plenty of room.

Zaklopatica

Restaurants Augusta Insula and Triton have tailed lines to the quay with electric. (25 min walk to Lastovo Town)

Skrivena Luka
Skrivena Luka is sheltered from all winds and seas. Good holding in 5 to 15 m sand and mud bottom. A couple of konobas on the shore, one with moorage available.
Pat and Rosalind [ Morgan le Fay ] 15-Sep-2008
I tried to anchor in here in a south easterly gale when I came across from Mljet, but the gusts in the bay were quite severe, and the holding on the weed bottom did not instill any confidence, so I hightailed it to the secure anchorage near Ubli.
Otherwise a pleasant bay with a few konobas(tavernas) and holiday homes. It shallows off to the head of the bay in the north.
Along the southern coast of Lastovo, eastward from Luka Velji Lago, you will find 'Skrivena Luka' (‘Hidden Harbour) bay.
Long ago, it was a favourite hide-out for pirates, being chased by the Venetians. The entrance to this bay is almost invisible from the sea. It is a beautiful mooring site. Below some pictures from this bay (source: website Lastovo Tourist Office).

Check in procedures
The most important thing is to proceed directly to check-in and do not attempt to anchor or dock anywhere else, no matter what time of day or night you arrive. People have been arrested and fined anchoring elsewhere after arriving late at night. You won't be able to check in until morning anyway, but at least you are in the check-in port. The port authority office is located next to the bar on the NE corner of the town dock and this should be your first stop.
I docked on this eastern dock and was allowed to stay there just for the check-in.
This is where you get your vignette documents and pay for the cruising permit. Check in is very friendly and easy. It cost me 1085 kunas (€150) for 10 meters. This is valid for 1 year.
I attached the vignette sticker to the starboard side of my mast, just above the deck, but I was warned that they don't come off very easily and could damage your paint.

You are also given a "LIST OF PERSONS", which is intended to limit unauthorised chartering in Croatia. You are meant to fill in every guest that sails with you during your stay in Croatia (not including guests at the dock). The number of possible guests is calculated by your boat size and the number of berths. When the list is full: no more guests. After clearing the port authority you need to walk around to the opposite side of the port to the small customs and immigration portable building. They are not always there and you may need to call +385 208 01021.
Customs simply asks if you have anything to declare, and immigration stamps your passport. You, personally, are allowed 90 days in Croatia. The boat's vignette is valid for one year.

Check out procedures
Once again, the otherwise laid back Croatian authorities are extremely strict about check-out procedures.
Once you have cleared immigration, you must leave Croatia immediately by the most direct route. You cannot clear-out in the evening and leave in the morning. This is unfortunate, especially since one usually wants to make the Italian coast in daylight and this is 60 miles away.
First clear with the port authority, next to the bar on the east side of the port, and then with customs and immigration on the west side in the portable building.
I was told by fellow cruisers that they might allow me to check out in the evening and stay on the customs dock until morning, but they would not hear of it.
So I stayed next to the fuel dock and had to wait until they showed up a 0830 the next day to get my immigration stamp on the paperwork. This meant I had to push hard to make Vieste before dark.
(This article comes courtesy of WorldCruisingGuide.net)

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